Author Topic: Patches  (Read 2099 times)

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #15 on: November 10, 2016, 02:00:15 PM »
Haven't got a lot done since last time, but I did get the brakes installed. I didn't do a full bleed at each corner because I still have to install extended brake lines, but I can tell a huge difference in pedal pressure even without the engine running. (The old master was leaking.)



Looks like my steering shaft is just barely going to fit. This pic is before I got it installed. Roughly a 1/4" of clearance. It's possible it might touch at full throttle if the engine leans over too much, so I will have to keep an eye on it. (I don't think I'll be doing much full throttle though.) It might self-clearance, haha.



Finally got to unpack my seats. They almost are too nice.  :))




Had to order some more stuff, hopefully the last order. Just Empty Every Pocket, right?

I think it's been over 6 months now. I'm getting excited to finish this phase. It'll never be finished of course, but if I can get it inspected and on the road I am calling that phase 1.

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2016, 12:02:45 PM »
So here's how she's sitting today.



I can theoretically start, stop, and steer it. I mounted the drive by wire throttle to the firewall, and connected the new steering column and steering shaft.

I'm just kind of going down my list and checking stuff off now. Nothing worth snapping pictures of.

Sadly, I can already tell I am going to have to redo some stuff.

The rear driveshaft angle is really bad. It's close to binding at ride height. I either need to lose some lift, move the axle back, or bring the end of the transmission down. Probably some of all 3. I also think I will be cutting off the spring perches and rotating the pinion up so I can run a CV joint on the rear.

The seat is too close and there's no way to scoot the seat back. It's fine for the trails but a long drive would be hellish without cruise control.

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #17 on: November 27, 2016, 04:05:39 PM »
Once again, I haven't really got as much done as I hoped, but I drove it a little. So there's that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxI4dL9cSdI

I put it in 2-low at first because I was thinking if the throttle hangs or something at least I won't be going very fast when I crash. :) What I found out was that in 2-low the brakes do nothing, the front brakes just lock up and slide. Those black marks look like I tried to launch it, but that is the brakes locking up.



I was right/wrong about the rear drive shaft. It is an issue, but it's not just close to binding at ride height, it's already bound up. You get a thump-thump-thump as it rotates, so I had to remove it.

So after that I did a little more work ... put seat belts in, got my Torque Converter Clutch signal to the ECM working, put it in 4-high (rear driveshaft is out, so it's really FWD), and it was a lot better to drive.





I only drove it a little bit in the neighborhood. The power is ridiculous. Stupid ridiculous. I spun the front tires a few times completely by accident just giving it about 20% throttle too quickly. You don't even really have to give it gas at all until you get up to about 15 mph, it'll take off from idle pretty strong. I figure the Jeep is around 3000 pounds and the engine makes around 350 horsepower, so the power to weight ratio is pretty respectable.

So the big takeaway is that I need to get the rear driveshaft working and see if I can improve the brakes at all.  Ton of wires and related electrical crap to tidy up. Hoping I can get it all legal before having a topless Jeep with no heat is too cold to drive.


foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2016, 05:43:29 PM »
So about that rear driveshaft angle ...

I got some shorter shackle plates. It really is too high, and the suspension is about 3 inches from fully dropped out just sitting there. The shackles will only bring it down about an inch though. There really is no cure except to break in these springs, or maybe pull a leaf, or get springs with no lift built in.

But I did find this pic from GoatBuilt, showing how they mount the LS drivetrain in their chassis. Mine is basically flat at -3 degrees, their angle is a lot more, maybe -20 degrees or more just eyeballing it.



So, for something like the 5th time I am going to redo the trans/transfer case mount to get the drivetrain pointed down more. I bought a new mount for the Atlas that goes around the rear output housing. It wasn't cheap, but damned if I was going to remove the transfer case if there was a way that I could avoid it.

If I can get another 10 degrees down, I think I am golden, but I can probably go more if I need to.

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #19 on: December 11, 2016, 11:39:18 PM »
Alright, so what's happened since last time?



I put shocks on. This turned out to be another PITA. The OME shocks were somehow way too short even though they were what is spec'd for the YJ springs. I guess the CJ has different shock mount points. I got 4 Billstein 5100 shocks for the rear of a YJ with a spring over axle lift instead. They fit the rear perfect, but they are a little too compressed for the front. Probably ok, but they will limit up travel. If I get 2" longer shock mounts they will probably be just about perfect.

The shock bushings on the rear had to be pressed out and replaced with normal poly bushings. Kind of a hassle, but my Harbor Freight shop press is paying dividends and made the job a lot easier.

I put shorter spring shackles on the rear. It leveled out nicely, but the driveshaft still bound up.

Got my new transfer case mount done and the driveline mods finished. No binding at normal ride height, and not that close to binding anymore. The finial measurement was -11 degrees, but I'm not sure anymore because the app on my phone started acting funny. You can look at the engine and see a definite downward slope though. It might be close to the CAD drawing from Goat Built.




foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2016, 10:28:43 AM »
Time for my regularly scheduled update.



New steering stabilizer. I had to special order this from AutoZone I had a $20 credit, otherwise I would have just got it from RockAuto. I've been amassing credits like crazy, haha.



Trimmed the metal pipe on my air intake to make it fit better.



Mounted the ECM.



So the battery, ECM and air intake are all in the same area. Not sure if this is a great idea or not, but it's relatively high and dry up there. It's about 40" to the bottom of the ECM, so potentially I have a good water fording depth. (Not really in the plans though.)



New skinny driveshaft up front. It's just going to make things so much easier for running exhaust and such. I can still use the "old" one if/when I go spring over, might even could use it as a trail spare.



Cut this hump out of the cross member, after lowing the driveline it had to go to allow the pan to clear.



Passenger seat installed. I had to re-hack and patch the floorboard first is what took so long.



They tryna to catch me ridin' dirty.

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2016, 02:45:58 PM »
I had the week off and really got a lot done. I'm calling Phase I complete. Still might be doing some fixes and what not, but I think I just need an exhaust system to pass inspection.



I put on a roll bar cover and bikini top. Kinda makes it look a little better.



Patches got some cheap body armor for Christmas. It hides a lot of flaws.



The new wiring harness was a total pain in the ass, but everything works now.



Technically you have to take the steering wheel off to get the dash out, but I said F that and cut the bottom off here. It's a big time saver and it wasn't exactly a pristine dash to start with.







More wiring



Old hacked up harness.



This is a Lokar reverse light kit for various GM transmission including the 4L60e. Only reason I'm pointing it out is because I had to bend the bracket pretty significantly to make it work because of the big switch on the side of the trans. Anyway, once it was bent and massaged into the right shape it worked fine.



I cheaped out on the tunnel cover. It works for now.



I got some of that 3M 2-sided tape and attached my flares. I didn't see the point in using hardware. If they rub off, I'll just re-attach them with more sticky tape. They're pretty well stuck on there though. I used clamps to really let the tape get a strong hold.

I found an idler pulley is wobbly so I need to fix that at some point and I maybe to do brakes. I'm trying to make the brakes last for a while because I think axles are next.

arveetek

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 142
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #22 on: December 31, 2016, 07:57:49 PM »
Looking good!

Casey
1995 Chevy Tahoe 2 door, 6.5L turbo diesel, 4L80E auto, NV241, 3.42's, Eaton ADL in rear, 285/75R16 BFG TA K02's on Toyota steelies, Roadmaster Active Suspension in rear, 1" crank in front, Westin brush guard

foo.c

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
    • View Profile
Re: Patches
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2017, 04:27:33 PM »
Thanks!

I was hoping to have gotten the exhaust put on and had it inspected, but the brakes were worse than I first thought so I am in the middle of that. Stupid brake line fitting stripped off so ended up ordering a new line that should be here tomorrow.



 

anything